Lumban, a place where the Spanish colonial legacy and Filipino craftsmanship converged, is renowned for its intricate hand embroidery craftsmanship that adorns traditional Barong Tagalog and Filipiniana attire. More than its love of heritage works, the town’s idyllic setting along the shores of Laguna de Bay provides a tranquil escape for those seeking to unwind amidst nature’s beauty.

The love of hand embroidery by the town of Lumban made its way as part of the CALABARZON leg of the Philippine Experience – a flagship program of the Department of Tourism. It is a promotional project that would herald every town’s rich heritage, striking arts, and deeply embedded culture through a series of tour caravans. As the vision of the incumbent Tourism Secretary is to transform the Philippines into a tourism powerhouse in Asia, the project will highlight the Filipino identity and brand encapsulating the entire Philippine travel and tourism ecosystem to capture a renewed global interest in our nation as a tourism destination.

History of Embroidery in Lumban

Lumban’s hand embroidery tradition dates back to the Spanish colonial period when Catholic friars introduced the craft to the locals. The Lumban women of that era took the craft well, done during their spare time of the day. The craft flourished from generation to generation to define the local industry and the intricate art form quickly gained popularity, becoming an essential part of Lumban culture and heritage.

Through the years, the Lumban locals, women and men alike developed a love of this needlework and the deeply embedded craftsmanship heralded various techniques in employing intricate designs. As with every textile and fabric-related skill, the process is tedious, and laborious and requires skilled planning to express the desired outcome. The manual dexterity developed through decades of skill building, adding up the creative process makes each barong a masterpiece, and quite pricey. Apart from the skill, the premium pina fiber or abaca-cotton fabric makes each and every piece a premium wear bearing Lumban’s tangible love of the craft.

With many Industrial Revolutions that transpired and the advent of various embroidery machines, nothing beats the dramatic design depth of a master hand embroiderer. The distinct Lumban style of instilling design onto the barongs is called the Callado. The process involves skillful pulling out of fibers to reduce fiber count. What remains from the fabric is stitched together using a variety of open thread work patterns and producing the unique yet classy Calado design.

During our visit to Lumban town, we happened to encounter Ms. Lillian Del Valle of Barangay Balimbingan. Ms. Del Valle has been in the skill for more than 56 years. She recalls that it was 14 years of age when she began doing hand embroidery. Alongside her are the younger generations, gentlemen and ladies painstakingly applying their individual dexterity to transform a dull piece of fabric into a stunning piece of traditional wear.

Barong Tagalog and Filipiniana Attire

The exquisite embroidery from Lumban finds its most iconic expression in the Barong Tagalog and Filipiniana attire. The Barong Tagalog, often called the “national dress for men,” is a symbol of Filipino elegance and formality. These embroidered garments are worn during special occasions, weddings, and other important cultural events. Part of the heartfelt welcome of the Lumban people is the array of kiosks with amazing displays of their best Barongs and FIlipiniana dresses. I was stunned by that much intricate detail I have seen ever since. The play of undulating lines and patterns that made up the superior Barong fabric caught my attention.

The craftsmanship involved in creating a Barong Tagalog is awe-inspiring. Artisans painstakingly hand-stitch intricate patterns and motifs onto the delicate piña fabric. The designs often draw inspiration from nature, with flowers, birds, and foliage adorning the fabric. The level of detail and precision in Lumban’s embroidery is nothing short of remarkable, making each piece a work of art.

Similarly, Filipiniana attire for women showcases the same level of craftsmanship. These dresses feature exquisite embroidery, often depicting historical and cultural symbols, making them a source of pride for Filipino women. The Lumban people, as they continually perfected their craft, also allowed design evolution through their techniques and styles matching different eras of fashion. It is evident, that winners from the recent design contest on display evoke the modern controls but maintain the traditional details making a world-class piece of art.

THE PANDEMIC EFFECT

The severe community quarantines during the COVID-19 era have truly wreaked havoc on the industry of the Lumban. But that did not dampen the spirits of the locals. Through the creative efforts of the Lumban people and with the directives of their good Mayor Hon. Rolando G. Ubatay, they did various activities that will help the craft to prevail. The incumbent mayor employed various strategic activities and online contests in honor of the town’s hand embroidery industry. This is a testament to the synergistic force of the local authorities and constituents to keep the practice breathing.

THE FUTURE OF HAND EMBROIDERY THROUGH FESTIVAL

The town of Lumban’s love of their craft emanates from generation to generation. Despite the young ones clinging to this tedious work of hand, it is truly rewarding to observe teenagers learning the craft. More than individual efforts to keep the tradition prevailing, it takes, really, a village full of efforts to keep it afloat. The Annual Burdang Lumban Festival held every month of September places the craft as the centerpiece of its festivities. From contests, street dances, and various activities that require the participation of different generations and civic societies, the message truly transcends this multi-sectoral town event.

The delegation of the Philippine Experience Program gets to have a taste of the festival. We are welcomed by the recent Champion Contingent of the Street Dance performance with a clear choreography depicting the maturing of a young Lumban through the help of the Hand Embroidery industry. The relentless energy of the young dancers transpired event after the performance as they engaged their guests with their fun and raving chants.

Explore the Lumban-based Local Crafts and Embroidery shops

During our visit, the Lumban LGU has strategically placed their best local brands and homegrown business units showcasing everything that is Lumban. From NGOs and private business entities, we have ease of access of their exquisite and premium products. Explore Lumban’s culinary offerings with their version of Espasol, a local glutinous rice delicacy, and their Kesong Puti. They also have locally sourced finger foods likes Camote Chips and Banana Chips – best to try while traveling on way back home. Of course, the Best Barong and Filipiniana designs are on display. I was astounded by the striking and delicate details they have, truly, a marvel work of Lumban locals.

In Lumban, the threads of history and artistry are woven together, creating garments that not only showcase Filipino heritage but also celebrate the enduring beauty of hand embroidery.