The charming town of Paete is a place that has earned the distinguished title of the “Carving Capital of the Philippines.”This town in Laguna province is home to a remarkable blend of history, artistry, and devotion which makes it a great destination to be included in the recent Philippine Experience Program – CALABARZON leg by the Department of Tourism. This flagship program aims to showcase and celebrate the vibrant culture, heritage, and arts of the country. It also focuses on the efforts of the Department of Tourism to promote the unique Filipino brand and identity to the entirety of the travel and tourism ecosystem.

LEGEND BEHIND THE PAETE NAME

In 1580, missionaries from the Franciscan Orders established a mission north of Laguna Lake called St. Laurence the Deacon, led by Fr. Juan de Placencia and Diego de Oropesa. The name “Paete” originated when a young friar was sent by his superior to visit their mission near the lake. He encountered a woodcarver using a tool labeled “PAET.” Curious about the name of the place in the woodcarver’s language, the friar asked. Misunderstanding, the woodcarver thought he was referring to the tool and responded, “PAET PO.” When the friar reported back to his superior, he mentioned reaching “PAETE,” and from then on, the town became known as Paete, while St. Laurence came to be associated with it.

Wood Carving in Paete, Laguna: A Time-Honored Tradition

The delegation of the CALABARZON Caravan is warmly welcomed with the entourage from the Paete LGU, with the good Mayor Ronald B. Cosico at the helm, at the open grounds fronting the town’s multipurpose hall. Alighting from our bus, we were welcomed by Lei and one of the best-tasting Lansones treats we had. Right at the stage are the centerpieces of Paete’s artisansphere – the master carvers. I was truly captivated by the intricate works of the carving in progress. Gifted with this skill to transform mediocre wood into something that is an absolutely striking and picturesque work of art.

Paete’s history as a hub for woodcarving can be traced back to the Spanish colonial era. When the Spanish introduced Christianity to the Philippines, they commissioned the construction of numerous churches and religious artifacts. It was during this time that the town’s talented artisans began to hone their skills in carving wood.

Wielding the tools that defined the industrial landscape of Paete, Mr. Reynaldo Barretto who has been carving for many years proudly presents an intricately designed carving titled “Philippine View” where aspects of Traditional Filipino Living are depicted clearly on this rounded timeless art.

For more than 21 years, Mr. Arnold Padol has been beginning the detailing works of the iconic Pieta. Mr. Padol hailed from Barangay Dos.

One of the aged and celebrated master carvers Mr. Ebong Cadayona of Barangay Uno proudly discusses the enamored details of the version of The Last Supper. Minuscule yet highly detailed heads of the main characters protruding from the main section the piece assuredly portrayed the story.

Among the celebrated master carvers who bear the wear and tear of the trade is a good-looking young man trying to work his craftsmanship on a huge chunk of wood trunk. It is a testament that Paete Town’s carving industry will prevail for generations to come.

Along the main thoroughfares of Paete, there are abundant stores selling the best of Paete, from wood carvings to paper mache (taka) products all in different sizes and shapes. It was like a one-stop shop. Stores stand side-by-side and proudly display colorful pieces. As busy as it gets, you would also notice the slow pace of life in Paete through these streets.

The stores that we visited are

ANGEL’S HANDICRAFT

UKIT AT TAKA ARTSHOP

ADAW HANDICRAFT

MAGTIBAY HANDICRAFT

By experience, all storekeepers we encountered are welcoming and would happily discuss their products.

The History of Paete Church – Saint James the Apostle Parish Church

At the center of this vibrant community stands the iconic Paete Church, also known as St. James the Apostle Parish Church. Paete Church, with its Baroque-style architecture and ornate façade, is a living testament to the town’s Spanish colonial past. Built in the 1600s by Franciscan friars, this magnificent church has witnessed centuries of history, including the Philippines’ struggle for independence and its journey to nationhood. The church’s enduring presence is a testament to the unwavering faith and resilience of the Filipino people.

Architectural Marvel

The architecture of Paete Church is a harmonious blend of Baroque and Neoclassical styles, featuring intricate carvings, decorative reliefs, and stunning stained glass windows. The façade is adorned with sculptures of saints, angels, and biblical figures, each meticulously handcrafted by Paete’s skilled artisans. It’s a visual masterpiece that captures the essence of Filipino religious artistry.

As you head out from the church through its side doors, one can easily identify the ultrathick buttresses jutting out from the church brick walls categorizing it clearly as one of the Baroque churches in the Philippines.

After entering the iconic arch door, you would welcome to its grand hall illuminated by crafty chandeliers exuding warm illumination thus exaggarating even more the rustic beauty of the interiors. The concave ceiling and its earth-tone colors complement the brick wall and all together create this antique premium classy look that will certainly be a spectacle to first-time visitors. At the other end of the main church aisle is the majestic retablo that would challenge other Catholic churches around the Philippines in terms of intricate beauty and sophisticated artistry.

Art Gallery of KAPE KESADA

Tucked between the tight labyrinths of Paete downtown, one should not miss the Kape Kesada Art Gallery. Ran by a family of artisans, and dentists, the multiuse Spanish Neo-colonial dwelling is an art gallery and a posh coffee shop with indoor and alfresco areas. One is hard not to miss because of its inviting facade and clear signage that beckons your presence in its intimate halls.

I am truly honored to have met the family behind the success and upkeep of the renowned Kape Kesada. The matriarch truly embraced us with warm hospitality along with his son and the rest of her team. During the tour, the Regional Director of the Department of Tourism – Davao Ms. Tanya Virginia Rabat-Tan, Regional Director of the Department of Tourism – Regional 6 Ms. Crisanta Marlene P. Rodriguez, Regional Director of the Department of Tourism – Cagayan Valley Mr. Troy Alexander G. Miano Region, the Executive Director II of the Nayong Pilipino Foundation Ms. Gertie Duran-Batocabe marveled at its humble yet statuesque displays. We have not tried any of the servings of the coffee shop but here is a photo of their updated menu for your reference.

Apart from a being a known coffee shop, the Kape Kesada offers Bed & Breakfast service on its upper floors. Their overnight rates range from Php2,500-Php3,000 depending on the holiday. If you wish to spend a night or two at Oarte, this is the recommended accommodation since of its strategic location.

What Visitors Can Buy

Religious Artifacts: Paete is renowned for its exquisite wooden religious sculptures. Shoppers can find finely carved images of saints, the Virgin Mary, and crucifixes, perfect for religious collectors and devotional purposes.

Local Folklore Depictions: Delve into Filipino culture with wood carvings that narrate local legends, mythological creatures, and traditional Filipino stories. These unique pieces make excellent conversation starters and gifts.

Home Decor: Paete’s wood carving industry offers a diverse range of home decor items such as intricately carved panels, frames, and furniture. These pieces add a touch of Filipino elegance to any interior.

Personalized Keepsakes: Many artisan shops in Paete offer personalized wood carvings, allowing shoppers to commemorate their visit with their name or a special message engraved onto the artwork.

Travel Guide to Paete, Laguna

• From Manila: Paete is approximately a 2.5 to 3-hour drive from Manila. You can take the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX) and then follow the Rizal-Quezon Highway.
• Alternatively, public buses and vans are available from terminals in Manila to Sta. Cruz, Laguna. Alight in Sta. Cruz and take jeepney bound to Paete-Loob.
• From Neighboring Regions: If you’re coming from nearby regions like Calabarzon, you can easily reach Paete by bus or private vehicle.