The culinary industry continually evolves, mixing and matching different techniques and styles to obtain unique flavors and eye-catching presentations. Aesthetically pleasing, as demanded by the social media fed society. The fast-paced living, encroaching from the urban centers to the rural outskirts, has brought its transforming energy and as we know it, began its gradual adverse repercussions on the preservation of heritage culinary expressions. When most consciousness and breathing souls are directed towards the bounding and binding forward future, heritage dishes suffer undue decay leading to intangible obliteration.
Meeting a heritage custodian, like Atching Lillian Borromeo of Mexico, Pampanga, is among the eclipsing forces to push the preservation and proliferation of heritage dishes. Why should you meet her? Even as not part of the culinary or hospitality industry, one can learn her values and virtues as how she operates in the kitchen. More than slicing, chopping, or whisking magically the ingredients over indigenous or antique utensils, understanding the historical and cultural values deepens the meaning and expounds your understanding of every heritage dish she serves. It was on a rainy Sunday afternoon when we had an opportunity for a quick discussion and engagement with Atching Lillian. She expressed the same enthusiastic energy of spirited storytelling on how things came to be albeit with an octogenarian gait. Her gaze, her smile, and her infectious laughter kept our attention at bay, unknowingly leading to more heritage stories and historical narrations branching to different eras and decades.
READ GUIDE
- BORN FOR CULINARY EXCELLENCE
- VIRTUES IN THE KITCHEN
- FROM CORPORATE HOSPITALITY TO CULINARY STARDOM
- WHAT MAKES A CUISINE TO BE KAPAMPANGAN?
- CULINARY HIGHLIGHTS
- HER FAVE DISH
- HER WISHES AND DREAMS
- BE INSPIRED WITH HER STORIES
BORN FOR CULINARY EXCELLENCE
Did you know that the living Kapampangan Culinary icon dreamt of taking a Medicine course? Who would have thought that expert and delicate hands could have been part of the allied medical industry? But thanks to the matriarchal leaders, her mom and grandmother, born from generations of a family of kitchen aficionados nurtured a soon-to-be living icon hailing from Mexico town. When asked how she began her affinity or love of cooking, we expect a lengthy storytelling. Yes, it was, but mind you, her manner of storytelling transcends your inner thoughts in her time as if sucked through a time warp and you see yourself sauntering from scene to scene coming out from her words. I could imagine myself in monotone colors dealing with scenarios from the time she began talking about her childhood. Playing with a doll time was considered a luxury in her family where she only got one when she was 12-13 years of age coming from a holiday wish. With a seemingly strict grandmother, her youth is spent learning in the kitchen, where she mastered different techniques of food preparation to concoct magically on what to be the heritage dishes of today. Fast forward to her formal higher education years, Atching Lillian blared that she spent seven years in college due to transfers in different institutions. She struggled with her Home Economics teachers whom comparatively she, herself, had existing advanced mastery of kitchen skills. There were scenarios that she would suggest techniques to her teachers during cooking demonstrations which they interpreted as student arrogance.
VIRTUES IN THE KITCHEN
To Atching Lillian, cooking is more than just a means of preparing food—it’s a ritual that embodies discipline and care. The virtues she upholds in the kitchen reflect her deep respect for the ingredients and the process, which she believes are essential in bringing out the true flavors of Kapampangan cuisine.
Presentation
Kapampangan cuisine is not just about taste; it is also a visual experience. Atching Lillian believes that food should be beautiful, reflecting the pride that Kapampangans have in their heritage. Presentation, for her, is an extension of the respect given to the ingredients and the history of the dish. From the symmetry of the arrangement to the vibrancy of the colors, every element on the plate tells a story.
Cleanliness
“Everything starts with cleanliness,” she says. Her immaculate kitchen is a reflection of her belief that a clean space leads to pure, untainted dishes. Atching Lillian insists that maintaining a clean work environment not only ensures health and safety but also respects the food itself. This virtue is the first step in creating a dish worthy of Kapampangan pride.
Proper Portioning
An expert in balance, Atching Lillian emphasizes proper portioning as the key to a well-rounded dish. In her kitchen, there is little room for waste or excess. “Each ingredient should have its place and purpose,” she advises. This discipline allows her to showcase the natural flavors of each component without overpowering the other, creating dishes that are not just filling, but fulfilling.
FROM CORPORATE HOSPITALITY TO CULINARY STARDOM
Before she became a household name in the world of Filipino cuisine, Atching Lillian Borromeo had a different life in corporate hospitality. However, the call of her Kapampangan roots and the pull of ancestral recipes were too strong to ignore. This shift from boardrooms to kitchens is where she truly found her voice, leading her to become a beloved cultural figure, revered for preserving and reviving the unique tastes of Pampanga.
WHAT MAKES A CUISINE TO BE KAPAMPANGAN?
According to Atching Lillian Borromeo, these are some of “notes” about Kapampangan: When asked what makes Kapampangan cuisine distinct, Atching Lillian uses three words that encapsulate the spirit of her province:
- Mayabang
In Kapampangan, mayabang means proud. According to Atching Lillian, Kapampangan cuisine is bold and confident. “We are proud of our flavors,” she says. Each dish is a testament to the Kapampangan love for food, never shying away from rich ingredients, bold spices, and generous servings. It’s a cuisine that stands tall. - Maselan
Maselan translates to meticulous, which describes the Kapampangan attention to detail in cooking. Atching Lillian emphasizes that every dish requires careful preparation, from selecting the freshest ingredients to ensuring that each process—whether it’s sautéing, simmering, or grilling—is done to perfection. Nothing is rushed, and nothing is left to chance. - Maganda
Meaning beautiful, maganda is both the aesthetic and the sentiment behind Kapampangan dishes. Atching Lillian believes that every plate served should not only taste delicious but look beautiful as well. Presentation is key, and much like the people of Pampanga, the food is crafted to leave a lasting impression.
CULINARY HIGHLIGHTS
One of the highlights is the discussion about the famous Panecillos de San Nicolas – a buttery cookie recipe made famous because of the historical value of the molds. Presented are different etchings from wood depicting different styles with different narratives. Atching Lillian also made it a point to show her own image of the St. Nicholas de Tolentino. Each dish mentioned always have an accompanying background story triggering my interest profoundly.
HER FAVE DISH
Remember the scenes in Ratatouille where the auditor was brought back in memory. She had one too. When asked about what dish is currently on her radar, she quickly reverted with bistig damulag. It was during judging a cooking contest in Bacolor town
HER WISHES AND DREAMS
As a living cultural icon in her octogenarian years, she still dreams big not only for herself, but for the Kapampangan nation as a whole. Asking her specifically, Atching Lillian mentioned that she dreams that every Kapampangan dishes are not only documented and preserved, but actually prepared and served. As this could be her mantra, do not die and bury the recipes with you. She also dreams that all culinary-related forces to join hands to continually uplift the Kapampangan cuisine.
After expressing our goodbyes, it dawned on me how fragile certainly already are our Kapampangan heritage dishes. Who would have served or prepared Paksing demonyo, Lumpiang garrote or Bobotong Asan lately? on a normal day? on a usual kitchen?
BE INSPIRED WITH HER STORIES
We invite you to invest moments with different cultural and heritage living icons and the learn the importance of preserving different cultural and heritage treasures of our respective places. For hassle-free experiences, contact Eventive Travel Services at sales@eventivetravelservices.com, Mobile Number +63 917 163 1884, or visit their office at Unit 203 Golden Wings Bldg. 4031 Gen. T de Leon , Valenzuela, Philippines.
